On our swing through southern Ireland, Blarney Castle was an obvious, almost obligatory, bucket list stop. Honestly, I don’t really look forward to some of these so-called touristy attractions. And as it turns out, for good reason.
On that fine August morning in Cork, we awoke to a beautiful, partly cloudy day – you could actually see the sun! Unfortunately, some members of our entourage were not having a good morning for some unknown reason, and our itinerary was already in shambles by breakfast. Not to worry, it’s a beautiful day with lots of padding built into our schedule. Today was plotted to be a “stop and smell the roses” kind of day.
We left our accommodations in Cork nearly two hours behind schedule. By the time we arrived at Blarney Castle, the car park was filled with white buses – oops. Entering the immaculate grounds was relatively easy and pain-free. We figured the grounds are so extensive that the people on the buses spread out. Our initial entry and view of Blarney Castle from our approach was simply beautiful. As we approached the castle itself, we ran into a very friendly bagpiper.
Further in, at the castle entrance, we found the hordes of people brought by the tour companies. The scrum to enter the castle and kiss the Blarney Stone was thick, wide, and long – a 2-hour wait, we were told.
Pro Top: Arrive early.
Our entourage quickly huddled and called an audible – we would forego the interior of the castle and the Blarney stone. We agreed the wait was not worth the experience of kissing the well-moistened stone. Instead, we decided to explore the grounds of this surprisingly magnificent estate/attraction.
We were brought here by the castle, but the grounds were unexpectedly beautiful and well-curated. Probably the nicest gardens we saw in all of Ireland. The only other stop that was anywhere near on par was the Powerscourt Estate in County Wicklow.
We quickly realized we had made the right decision. The gardens are the star exhibit, featuring six distinct zones—Poison Garden, Rock Close, Lake Walk, Himalayan Ridge, Pinetum, and the Irish Native Meadow—all connected by picturesque country paths.
Herbaceous Border & Pergola
After a quick snack and restroom stop at the Stable Yard Café, we stumbled into the Herbaceous Border & Pergola – a 100-metre pergola path lined with ribbons of perennials bursting with colors no painter can match.
The Pinetum
Beyond the stables and the pergola, we strolled into the Pinetum where the air cooled and the sky narrowed by the towering trees. The collection of large conifers was impressive. A multitude of awe-inspiring trees from around the globe are on display here – many accompanied by signage to aid in identifying the species. There’s a 120-foot Wellingtonia planted in 1870. Monterey pines sway gently in the light breeze while pinecones crackle beneath your steps.
Below is our favorite tree – The Monkey Puzzle Tree, an Araucaria araucana. It resembles a spiky, green dinosaur of a tree that wandered into Ireland from Jurassic Park. This tree so captivated me that I did a little post-travel research. It’s native to the slopes of Chile; it has been the national tree there for centuries and reached Ireland in the 1800s.
The Lake Walk
Leaving the Pinetum, we followed the road around the Lake Walk. The wide paths used by the estate and surrounding farms are lined with wooden fences and stone walls. Along the route, you’ll find picturesque pastures with horses happily grazing as if on cue. Soon, the gravel road leads you to the 22-acre lake and boathouse. You’re likely to see swans and herons framed by the cattails and lily pads encircling the lake.
Circling back along the road, you will run into the Bee Observatory, tucked beside the walled garden, a glass-walled beehive. Thousands of native Irish black bees can be viewed hard at work in the combs.
Blarney House
Continuing back along the walled garden, you’ll arrive at Blarney House. This estate is so vast that some people never notice the mansion. A Scots-Baronial façade of pepper-pot turrets built in 1874. Open from June to August, the interior is all about the Victorian era, featuring a grand mahogany staircase and a 24-seat dining table. It takes about 30 minutes to tour the house.
Epilog
Although we passed on the Blarney Stone Kodak moment, we left feeling like we saw the main attraction – the 5-star gardens and grounds. In hindsight, we should have packed a picnic lunch, but that’s just me, seeking perfection. I arrived jaded by the auspices of another tourist attraction – and I was partially correct. However, we also discovered an unexpected gem that became a memorable highlight of our time in Ireland.