Kinsale is a picturesque harbor town that is quintessential coastal Ireland. We were staying in Cork, and after enduring Ireland’s prerequisite right of passage – the narrow winding roads – we rolled into town. It was everything we expected and more.
Anyone with a cell phone camera and the ability to point and shoot can start a postcard business in Kinsale. The views at every turn are stunning in an atypical old town Irish sort of way. We had no real plan; we just explored and ate our way through town. This gem on the rim of County Cork did not disappoint. The town appears to have been designed specifically for a tourism advertisement.
We found parking adjacent to the harbor, and immediately, the views of this old water town were exactly as advertised. Loaded with sailboats. Some boats were left sitting on the dry harbor basin as the tide had receded. The exposed mud and oyster beds, along with the sailboat vagabonds lazily working on their vessels, just added to the scenery. The travel agency images were now in 3D and in full technicolor motion.
The air reeked of brine and diesel, and seagulls screamed overhead. The walk along the harbor wall led us straight into the beautiful yet unpolished city center. It’s welcoming, but like in a salty, handsome, and burly longshoreman sort of way.
For the “Gourmand”
Kinsale is billed as Ireland’s “gourmet capital,” but I’m not sure if the label quite fits. We did not seek nor stumble upon any culinary delights, but what we did find suited our adventure just fine. Overall, Ireland’s food has been much better than expected.
My first stab at local cuisine was a simple pint and some of the local oysters. They were undoubtedly fresh, firm, and tasty. Although my family is constantly trying to dissuade my tendency to judge coastal towns’ table fare by the quality of their oysters, I will continue undaunted in my efforts. Also on the menu at Jim Edwards, was a bowl of seafood chowder that could’ve raised the dead – thick with haddock, mussels, and cream.
The Shops
Continuing my journey down the town’s twisted cobblestone streets, you will see the prerequisite candy-colored shopfronts that mask their age. We wandered past galleries and boutiques, where shop windows overflowed with hand-knit scarves and sweaters, and Celtic-themed jewelry. Pottery is also popular in the shops throughout Ireland, and Kinsale is no different. You’ll find the typical touristy items as well as hand-thrown pieces, both new and old.
The shops here don’t just sell—they tell stories, each item a thread in the town’s weathered tapestry. We find the stories colorful and amusing, but the jaded traveler in me sometimes wonders how many times those well-worn stories have been told.
Further exploring on exiting Kinsale, you’ll find Charles Fort, a star-shaped behemoth on the harbor’s edge, which squats like it’s still waiting for an invasion. We walked its ramparts, wind clawing at my jacket, and imagined soldiers shivering here in 1689, cursing the cold and rain.
The Undampened People
And yes, it rained in Kinsale – after all, this is Ireland. Even on days with a zero chance of precipitation, it rained. Also as ubiquitous as the rain was the omnipresence of charming people. We really did not expect Ireland to be so heartfelt and friendly. We truly felt the warmth and welcome everywhere we went.
This small coastal town had it all in the quaint, wet Irish way. In hindsight, Kinsale’s magic isn’t in its “must-see” spots; it turned out to be in its people. All in all, it was a treat from start to finish.